Autofocus is one of the great convenience of modern photography.  18 years ago when I picked up my first camera, autofocus was making a big splash.  It had been around for a while, but it wasn’t until that time that it really started to work.  Today, we take it for granted.  The autofocus systems on today’s cameras are amazing and help us to capture images that would be difficult, if not impossible, to capture without it.  Despite the ready acceptance of the technology, most photographers don’t even realize that their cameras have different options when it comes to autofocus.  On my canon cameras, I find settings for one shot, AI servo, and AI focus (other manufacturers offer similar settings though the names might be different).  What do these settings mean and how do they impact our photography?

Before we get started, we need to understand a term: point of focus.  When you tell you camera to focus, what you are really telling it is focus on a single point within the image.  This point is the point of focus and it impacts how autofocus works.

Female baboon with baby eating a sausage tree fruit, Tarangire National Park, Tanzania.

(click on image to see larger version)

One Shot Autofocus:

One shot autofocus is what most people think of when they use autofocus.  The way one shot works is that once focus is achieved (pressing the shutter button part way), it remains locked on a single point of focus until the shutter button is released.  Moving the camera around does not change the original point of focus.  This is convenient when you want to recompose the scene after focusing.  Place the subject int he middle of the frame, focus, then recompose to take advantage of the rule of thirds.

The image above, for example, shows a mother baboon holding her baby as she eats the fruit from a sausage tree.  While there certainly was movement, the baboons were not going anywhere and the baby was fairly still (mother was the only one eating).  This was a perfect situation for one shot.  To get the shot, I focussed on the baby’s face, recomposed the image so that the baby was in the lower center of the frame, and waited for the pair to assume a nice pose.

Olive baboon mother walking while carrying baby baboon on her back, Tarangire National Park, Tanzania.

(click on image to see larger version)

AI Servo Autofocus:

In the second image (above) one shot would not have worked.  The mother was on the move with her baby and locking down a single point of focus would have been problematic because the female’s location was constantly changing.  Attempting to use one shot would result in blurry pictures and a lot of frustration.  The solution is to switch the setting to AI servo.  Unlike one shot, AI servo does not lock once a point of focus has been set.  Instead, AI servo tracks the subject as it moves around the frame.  As long as you keep the subject in the frame, AI servo will try to keep it in focus.  While not perfect, AI servo does work surprisingly well in situations where the subject is mobile, such as flying birds, running cheetahs, or monkeys on the move.  The downside of AI servo is that moving camera can cause the point of focus to shift, so it can be difficult to reposition the subject within the image.

AI Focus Autofocus:

In recent years, Canon’s camera’s have offered a third autofocus option: AI focus.  In theory, AI focus is the best of both worlds.  Using advanced technology, the camera decides if the subject is moving or stationary.  Once that decision is made, the camera shifts between one shot and AI servo.  When it works, AI focus is a fantastic tool.  Unfortunately, I find it unpredictable in the real world, so I tend to stick with either one shot or AI servo for my autofocus needs.

Hopefully this provides you with a better understanding of how the different autofocus settings work and which setting will give you the best results in a given situation.  When in doubt, keep it simple: stationary subject = one shot, moving subject = AI servo.  Now get out there and give them a try.

With the school year underway, I decided to step outside of my usually wildlife imagery and challenge you with something different.  Therefore, this week’s photo assignment is sports.  Here in Texas high school football is in full swing (despite the 95 degree weather) along with girls’ volleyball, soccer, and cross country.  Over the past four years I have become the official sports photographer for The Winston School San Antonio and it is always a creative challenge to produce quality sports images.  It also has the advantage of keeping my wildlife photography skills in practice as the overlap between sports and wildlife photography is considerable.

Sports photography offers a great opportunity to try your hand at capturing drama, victory, defeat, and good sportsmanship.  Sports contain the opportunity to capture both obvious and subtle images.  While most photographers will try to catch the quarterback breaking through the line and scoring a touchdown or be prepared for the devastating spike on the volleyball court, many will miss the side-stories that make compelling images in their own right.  The cheer that goes up when a touchdown is scored.  The high fives that are exchanged following a great tackle.  The exhaustion at the end of a hard won game.  The coach pushing her players to never give up.  Sports offer drama on many levels and it is your job to capture that drama on film.

On the technical side, sports involve action, so fast shutter speeds are important.  Modern camera can do amazing things at high ISO settings, so don’t be afraid to crank it up.  Also, a good zoom lens can be very helpful in framing as the players move around.  Good luck.

(click on the images to see larger versions)

Written on September 10th, 2010 , Camera Controls, Photo Assignment, Photography Information

This week’s photo assignment is about recording motion.  Photographically speaking, motion can be recorded two ways: frozen or blurred.  Sharp motion images are fairly straight forward and easy to produce when combined with a fast shutter speed and good timing.  Successful blurred motion shots, on the other hand, are much more difficult to create.  In this assignment, our goal is to use panning techniques to incorporate a sense of motion into the images.  Panning is a technique whereby a slow shutter speed is combined with fluid tracking of the subject to produce a blurred image in which the subject is still recognizable.  The result is the creation of a sense of motion in a still image.

The first key to panning involves selecting the correct shutter speed.  To successfully pan, the camera’s shutter speed must be set to a fairly slow setting.  The ideal setting will vary with each pan, depending on the subject’s speed.  Slower subjects will require slower shutter speeds to enhance the blurring effect.  With fairly quick moving subjects (running animals or moving cars) I usually recommend shutter speeds in the 1/10 – 1/15 of a second.  This is a good starting point from which you can experiment to find the best results.

The second key to creating good pan motion shots involves tracking the subject.  Rather then holding still, panning requires that the photographer follows the subject while taking the shot.  Usually a smooth twisting of the hips while shooting is all it takes to keep the subject within the frame.  A frequent mistake photographers make is to stop tracking the subject as they press the shutter button.  This ruins the smooth blurring effect we are after.  For a pan to work, it is essential that the movements be smooth and continue until after all of the images have been taken.  One great way to combat this tendency is to fire multiple frames of the subject as you pan.  Don’t settle for a single image when you can create multiple images to choose from (you never know which frame will be the best).

Good pan motion images are not easy to produce, but when successful they help to depict movement in a unique way to brings a sense of motion and energy to the image.

(click on the images to see larger versions)

Written on September 3rd, 2010 , Camera Controls, Photo Assignment, Photography Information
Leopard in a tree.Aperture impacts how bright this image is.

Every image is impacted by the camera's aperture setting. Leopard, Tarangire National Park, Tanzania.

Previously in the understanding photograph series; I discussed the basic camera controls. In that discussion, I explained how shutter speed and aperture work together to control the amount of light used to record an image. Understanding these two controls are really the key to photography, both technically and creatively. For more detail about shutter speed and how it impacts motion, click here.

Lets begin with a definition. The aperture is the size of the opening through which light passes as it moves through the camera lens. As the photographer, you can make this opening larger or smaller, thereby controlling the amount of light reaching the film (yes, we shoot digital cameras, but I shot film for a long time and film is easier to type then digital sensor). By doing this, you will cause the resulting image to become either lighter or darker.

Aperture is measured in f-stops. A standard scale of f-stops would include:

.. 2.8 .. 4 .. 5.6 .. 8 .. 11 .. 16 .. 22 .. 32 ..

Depending on your camera and lens combination, you might find all of these f-stop values on your camera, some of them, or additional values. No matter which f-stop values are present, they will always occur in the order listed above. F-stop values are calculated based on the diameter of the lens opening. This means that the sequence order is locked. F/2.8 will always come before f/4, which will always come before f/16.

So, what does this mean and why should I care? F-stop values on the low end (2.8, 4, etc) are what we call large apertures. These f-stop values correspond to large lens opening, which permit a lot of light to enter. The result, more light reaching the film. F-stop values on the other end of the scale (22, 32, etc) are small aperture settings, with small lens opening and a corresponding decrease in the amount of light.

How can you use this? Next time you are taking a picture, look at the light meter. If the exposure marker is off, you can adjust either the shutter speed or the aperture to get the correct brightness. Either one will change the amount of light and make the image lighter or darker.

Now, let me clarify something. As an enthusiastic photographer, you probably are shooting with a nice, DSLR camera. When you look at the aperture settings, you see a lot more numbers then I listed above. For example, your camera aperture values might look more like this:

……. 2.8  3.2  3.5  4  4.5   5  5.6   6.3   7.1   8 ……..

It looks like some crazy camera maker added a whole bunch of extra numbers just to confuse you. Now, take a deep breath and relax. Everything still applies, and the camera manufacturer is actually trying to help you. Instead of just giving you the standard f-stop values, camera makers now give you partial f-stop values. Instead of making you jump from f/2.8 to f/4, the camera lets you take partial steps, commonly called 1/3 stop values. If you look at our aperture values list again:

……. 2.8 3.2  3.5  4 4.5  5  5.6 6.3  7.1  8 ……..

You can see that the original values are still there, but two transition values have been added between each.

So, what aperture should you use?  That very much depends on how much depth of field you need.  (Article on Depth of field coming soon.)

Written on October 12th, 2009 , Camera Controls, Understanding Photography Series
Lapped-Faced Vulture taking flight 

 

This Lapped-Faced Vulture was frozen during take off by using a fast shutter speed (1-640 sec).

Show me a good photographer and I will show you someone who understands the basic camera controls.  Mastery of photography’s fundamentals is more then just an academic exercise.  It is a key to understanding the technical and creative controls that are available to a photographer.  Nowhere is this more obvious then in the use of shutter speed.

As I explained here, shutter speed impacts the amount of light reaching the digital sensor.  Fast shutter speeds hold the shutter open for a brief period of time, permitting only a little light to reach the digital sensor.  Slow shutter speeds hold the shutter open for longer, allowing more light to reach the sensor.  Used in combination with the lens aperture, shutter speed provides control over the final exposure.  What is less well known is that shutter speed also provides control over how motion will be recorded in the final picture.

Wildebeest running on the Savannah frozen using a shutter speed of 1/125 sec.

Wildebeest running on the Savannah frozen using a shutter speed of 1/125 sec.

Wildebeests running on the savannah.  Blur effect created using a shutter speed of 1/5 sec.

Wildebeests running on the savannah. Blur effect created using a shutter speed of 1/5 sec.

By controlling the amount of time the camera’s shutter is open, the shutter speed also controls the amount of time the sensor is exposed to movement.  A fast shutter speed will only be exposed to a small amount of subject movement while a slower shutter speed will be exposed to more movement as it remains open for longer.  As a result, fast shutter speeds tend to freeze the subject in place.  A flying bird will be frozen in the air with every feather fully detailed.  Slow shutter speeds, in contrast, will result in a blurring as the subject moves across the image.  By deliberately selecting a specific shutter speed, it becomes possible for the photographer to depict subject motion in a variety of different ways.

Cheetah walking on the savannah.

Walking Cheetah froze in place using a shutter speed of 1/1250 sec.

Same Cheetah walking on the savannah using a shutter speed of 1/10 sec.

Same Cheetah walking on the savannah using a shutter speed of 1/10 sec.

The cheetah above was slowly walking along the edge of the road in the Serengeti.  As we drove alongside, I altered my shutter speed, transforming a fairly static subject into a record of movement.  In this case, a shutter speed of 1/10 of a sec produced the desired combination of blur and sharpness that I was looking for.  At no time was this cheetah moving faster then a  slow walk, but the final image implies the motion for which these cats are famous.

What shutter speed should you use?  Unfortunately, there is no single correct answer for this question.  The best shutter speed depends greatly on how fast the subject is moving, how steady the camera is, and how much of a blur effect is desired.  Rapidly moving subjects will require faster shutter speeds to freeze motion while slow moving subjects might require several seconds to produce any noticeable blur.  I find the best results are usually obtained by changing the shutter speeds and playing.  Who knows, you might surprise yourself with the results.

Written on May 31st, 2009 , Camera Controls, Understanding Photography Series

In the last article, I discussed the two primary camera controls: shutter speed and aperture.  Both impact the amount of light reaching the digital sensor (or film for those still using traditional cameras).  The key question, or course, is how much light do you need to take a picture?

The good news is that cameras are designed to help you determine the correct amount of light.  In fact, the auto exposure mode only requires you to point the camera in the right direction and press the button.  It does everything else for you.  Lets pretend for a minute, however, that you are a control freak and feel the need to select your own shutter speed and aperture.  In that case, you will want to set the camera to manual exposure, thereby taking control of both the shutter speed and the aperture settings.

Once the camera is set to manual exposure, you need to locate the exposure meter.  An exposure meter generally consists of a small line with values ranging from -2 to +2 and can usually be seen when looking through the camera’s viewfinder (look through the eyepiece like you are taking a picture).  It might also be visible on one of the LCD screens (each camera is different).

Now that you have located the exposure meter, lets talk about how to change the amount of light.  Pressing the shutter button part way should activate the exposure meter, causing a small marker to appear somewhere along the line.  Changing either the shutter speed or the aperture setting will cause this marker to shift positions along the line.  Changing either the shutter speed or aperture to let in more light will move the marker towards the positive side of the meter.  Reducing the amount of light will move the marker towards the negative side of the meter.

So, what setting do you need to have the correct amount of light?  90% of the time the correct answer is “0”.  Shooting when the exposure meter has a positive value results in the image being too bright (overexposed).  Shooting with a negative meter reading produces an image that is not bright enough (underexposed).  Using an exposure meter reading of “0”, however, will produce a well exposed picture.  Give it a try.

Now, before seasoned photographers start to point out the limitations of what I have just said, let me point out that the above method is a simplified way to quickly determine proper exposure using manual camera controls and it will work well about 90% of the time.  The other 10% of the time, however, it fails miserably.  Unfortunately, the failures usually occur during the most dramatic lighting conditions that result in the best images.  Also, this method does not address the creative impact shutter speed and aperture settings have on the photographic process.  Having said that, don’t get overwhelmed.  All exposure begins with the light meter.  Once you understand how to manipulate that, everything else will fall into place.  Oh, did I mention that I will be talking about those exceptions in upcoming articles?

Written on February 22nd, 2009 , Camera Controls, Understanding Photography Series

Digital cameras contain some of the most advanced technology available for consumers.  High speed auto focus, advanced metering systems, and integrated high definition video all add to the complexity of these amazing pieces of electronic wizardry.  Fortunately, the basic function of a camera is fairly simple.  All of the electronic gizmos and do-dads add improved functionality to the camera, but they do not really change how it works.

For a minute, assume your camera does not have all of the menu options and custom functions that can overwhelm the most experienced photographer.  Instead, think about what a camera is; a light tight box that lets a controlled amount of light in.  Everything else is bells and whistles.  To take control of your camera, and dramatically improve your photography, you need to understand and control the amount of light entering the camera.  You need to understand shutter speed and aperture.

Imagine that you are inside a dark room and the only light entering the room is coming through a door.  You can control the total amount of light entering the room by how long the door remains open.  Leave the door open briefly and only a little light enters.  Hold it open for an extended period and the amount of light increases by accumulation.  Shutter speed operates in the same way.  The shutter is a physical barrier, or doorway, that prevents light from reaching the digital sensor (or film if you still use it).  The longer the shutter is open, the more light reaches the sensor.

Now, go back to the dark room with the doorway and image that you are an architect building the room.  As a builder, you will have no control over how long the door will remain open, but you do have control over the size of the door.  Add a large door and lots of light will pass through.  Put in a small door and the amount of light is reduced.  In photographic terms, aperture represents the size of the “door”.  The aperture is the lens opening through which all light passes on its way to the sensor.  By adjusting the aperture setting, you can control the physical size of the opening.  The larger the aperture setting, the more light passes through to reach the sensor. 

While it is somewhat simplified, photography at its foundation is mastery of shutter speed and aperture.  Each control impacts the amount of light recorded and the appearance of the final image.  Every other control on your camera is a convenience, but not essential to producing top quality images.  So next time you are feeling overwhelmed, remember, its all about shutter speed and aperture.

Written on January 25th, 2009 , Camera Controls, Understanding Photography Series

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Through the lens with Chris Gamel

Musings of a photographic educator.